If there were no fresh water prawns to catch barramundi then we were going to head off towards Kakadu.
All good plans are subject to change, especially in this family and although there was no prawn-like bait, we decided to stay anyway.
The kids were having a ball with their new found friend Jack who told them stories of fresh water crocs taking his fishing catches etc.. The boys were a little in awe of him I think. They all spent the day together, swimming in the thermal springs and kicking the footy, in between feeding his joey agile wallaroo.
As the kids played Richard befriended some feral folk in the tavern while he was watching the start of the spring racing carnival. I know I am using that word "feral" a lot lately but I am struggling to find another descriptive word that best describes parts of the Territory.
Anyway these feral folk spoke of their favorite prisons and told him what they had been in for, while using their vast vocabulary which consisted of every second word starting with an "f" or a "c." Their missing teeth and bodies full of home made stickers (tattoos) would have been enough to keep me away but no, not Richard, as I said he could strike up a chat with a barstool ( in fact bar stools are much less feral:-)
Around lunchtime, washing done, I headed over to the tavern to rescue my husband from his new found friends and to have some lunch. After lunch we all headed to the springs for another swim, it was about 45 degrees.
We all then had a quiet afternoon in the air conditioned comfort of the caravan
It was too hot to do much else.
Around 5ish we all sat out while the kids played and had a cold drink or two before organizing dinner.
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| Dugger, a reisdent Mataranka Homestead wallaby |
Jack's dad Steve came over for a drink with us and we all chatted way into the night.
Steve has been managing the Homestead for a few years with his wife Suzi and the kids. We didn't get to meet Suzi and the girls, they were away for a school camp in Canberra.
They too have been on the road and are heading west for the wet season, so we no doubt will catch up with them soon.
Sunday the 21st of October and we were up bright and early packing up, ready to move on. We said goodbye to Steve and Jack and Mataranka and we were back on the Stuart Highway.
About 45 minutes later we were in Katherine, it was much bigger than I expected. Richard had been to Katherine to visit his best mate Sam when he lived in the area about 15 years ago and he couldn't believe how much it had grown.
We were all excited to see a Woolworths and a real coffee shop, haha... It's the simple things!
We were all excited to see a Woolworths and a real coffee shop, haha... It's the simple things!
After a grocery shop and a coffee, we headed off towards Pine Creek, a quaint old gold mining town, which also boats the largest number of bird species in Australia and sits at the Junction of the Stuart and Kakadu Highways. Here we took a right turn, bound for Kakadu.
We stopped at Mary River to pay for our park pass and as soon as we passed through the rock gates to Kakadu, the landscape changed. From flat plains to hills, gorges and rocky outcrops.
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| Here we come... |
We took a right turn towards Gunlom Waterfall, where we would stay the night.
The 37 kilometers of gravel track was rough going but the scenery was beautiful.
We were now surrounded by hills and rock faces.
Eventually we reached the campsite, assessed the damage (dust everywhere and richard had lost his spotlight) set up and head towards the waterfall.
Every document we were given at Mary River had a "Croc warning" of some description and we had been told to assume that where there's water there are crocs, then this sign....
We were now surrounded by hills and rock faces.
Eventually we reached the campsite, assessed the damage (dust everywhere and richard had lost his spotlight) set up and head towards the waterfall.
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| Harry sets up camp with his fly net on |
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| No flies on Richard either |
Every document we were given at Mary River had a "Croc warning" of some description and we had been told to assume that where there's water there are crocs, then this sign....
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| "Doing my head in." |
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| I think this means we are welcome, but not for long. |
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| The kids and I with our fly nets on. |
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| Gunlom Waterfall, with a trickle at the end of the dry season |
It was mid 40s so we were all hoping to get wet but we would wait until we were at the waterfall to assess the danger, if any. We had been told that there would probably be the odd freshwater, which don't bother you (not as much as the flies do) and that all of the saltys get trapped and relocated at the end of the wet season.
On inspection of the water we decided it would be fine, as long as everyone stayed close to the edge and I stayed on croc watch.
On inspection of the water we decided it would be fine, as long as everyone stayed close to the edge and I stayed on croc watch.
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| Richard and the kids get wet |
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| The kids have fun while I look for moving logs |
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| Enjoying a cool off |
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| Chook in all her glory, walking back to camp after a swim |
The waterfall itself was just a trickle but in full flight in the middle of the wet season it would be spectacular.
After our refreshing swim we headed back to camp and the kids played monopoly while Richard and I chatted over a glass of Icy cold white wine as we watched the sun go down. Nina also lost her second tooth, So we were expecting a visit from the tooth
fairy in Kakadu.
fairy in Kakadu.
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| The kids play monopoly |
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| Chooky looses her second front bottom tooth |
We hoped to get an early night so we could rise early to walk up the mountain to see the water pools but it was so uncomfortably hot that we all tossed and turned until early morning.
We were jolted upright at one stage when we heard animals outside. Richard thought it was wild pigs and in the spotlight I thought I saw a horse but neither of us were completely sure until in the morning light. I looked out of the window to see a field of wild brumbies. I had never seen wild horses before .....
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| A brumby and her foal |
Monday the 22nd of Ocotber and hot, bothered and now tired, we all dragged ourselves out of bed to climb the nearby mountain to see what lay at the top of the waterfall.
It was steep but the higher we got, the more beautiful the view in the early morning sunlight...
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| Some of the beauty of Kakadu |
Reaching the top to find swimming pools and another smaller waterfall made the trek worthwhile, it was stunning and like a natural infinity pool...
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| So stunning, the picture doesn't give it justice |
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| Richard and the kids in the water hole at the top of the mountain |
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| An early morning cool down |
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| Richard on top of the world after another hard day at the office |
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| The kids in the natural infinity pool |
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| In the morning light |
On the way out we found the spotlight we had lost the day before, sitting in the middle of the heavily corrugated track. It was smashed, but we took it with us anyway.
We continued up the Kakadu Highway, bitumen had never felt so smooth after that terrible track.
As we continued north the termite mounds got bigger and bigger.
I am told these giant mounds are built by magnetic termites, some standing up to 10 feet tall. They also come with their own air conditioning system with two sides.
In the morning they congregate on the western side where it's cooler and by the afternoon they head to the eastern side. Clever little creatures!!!
I wish the caravan was built like that for these conditions.
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| A magnetic termite mound |
I am told these giant mounds are built by magnetic termites, some standing up to 10 feet tall. They also come with their own air conditioning system with two sides.
In the morning they congregate on the western side where it's cooler and by the afternoon they head to the eastern side. Clever little creatures!!!
I wish the caravan was built like that for these conditions.
Our first stop was at Yellow Waters where we went into an information centre which told us all about the local aboriginal tribes in the area. I think we all walked out with a much greater respect for the land we are in, after hearing about their dreamtime stories and their connection to the land.
We stopped to look at the wetlands which were beautiful.
Cruises are held through the wetlands several times a day but we decided to continue on.
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| Yellow Waters, part of the Kakadu wetlands |
Cruises are held through the wetlands several times a day but we decided to continue on.
Just before Jabiru another information centre told us more about the area and we watched a DVD on how it can all change so quickly once the wet season kicks in, which is anytime now.
In Jabiru we stopped to fill up the car, there wasn't much to the town and we continued on in a northerly direction to Border Town and set up camp at a place called Merl Campsite. We were now right on the border of the NT and Arnhem Land, a place I never dreamt of visiting.
After setting up I set about going through the van again and getting rid of that red dust that continues to infiltrate every nook and cranny. The boys ventured into Border Town to throw a line in and try their luck for a Barra from the bank of the East Alligator River but again, the Barra were proving to be elusive.
Dinner was simple, a sausage in a bun and we watched as this local visitor came close and kept watch....
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| A local owl drops in |
You would expect the heat to drop sometime into the night, but no... The temperature drops ever so slightly just before dawn before a new day of roaring heat where you can literally feel your skin cooking in the sun, if you can bare to stay in it long enough.
Tuesday the 23rd of October, and after another hot night we all got up and packed up and drove back to Border Town where the boys threw in another line in the East Alligator River while Nina and I made toasted sandwiches for brekky.
They didnt try long enough to get a bite, it was way too hot.
So off we headed towards Jabiru where we had a coffee and onto the Arnhem Highway, in the direction of Darwin.
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| East Alligator River |
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| Jack throws in a line |
So off we headed towards Jabiru where we had a coffee and onto the Arnhem Highway, in the direction of Darwin.
We ended up setting up camp mid afternoon at South Alligator River.
It was a really nice caravan park/resort and more importantly - it had green grass and a swimming pool.
It was a really nice caravan park/resort and more importantly - it had green grass and a swimming pool.
After unpacking the boys headed off to try their luck in the River for that elusive barra, while Nina and I hung out at the resort, washed clothes, made cupcakes and went for a swim.
Nina panicked while I was doing the laundry, she thought I had been away too long and went looking for me in the laundry, not thinking to venture an extra few metres to the clothes line.
When I found her she was in tears but the clever girl had the nous to send a text to her dad on my phone to say she couldn't find me, thank god there was no mobile service, I was only a few metres away the whole time.
When I found her she was in tears but the clever girl had the nous to send a text to her dad on my phone to say she couldn't find me, thank god there was no mobile service, I was only a few metres away the whole time.
Trying to negotiate crocs on the river and then getting a text message like that would have scared the hell out of the boys. After Nina calmed down we went for a swim, it was so nice to be cool.
A few hours later the boys arrived home with stories of croc infested waters and the pictures to prove it - but still no barra.
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| Spot the croc |
Thank god they were home in once piece. They immediately stripped off and went to the pool.
Dinner was in the resort restaurant. It was nice to be back in relative civilization.
Wednesday the 24th of October... I was up early and went for a walk down a bush trail. I heard more wild horses in the distance, the whole area must be full of them. The walk was beautiful and peaceful and ended in a billabong.
I returned back, we packed up and left Kakadu Lodge bound for Darwin.
We stopped at a place called Corroboree Park for a coffee and a photo opportunity....
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| They all finally catch a Barra :-) |
An hour later we hit our first set of traffic lights, what a novelty, it's been ages, followed by the first signs of the outer suburbs of Darwin.
We set up camp at a caravan park called Free Spirit, about 15 kilometers out of town and went for a drive to find a Battery World to get the car batteries changed.
Having to jump start the car every morning for the past fortnight was starting to wear thin.
Having to jump start the car every morning for the past fortnight was starting to wear thin.
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| Our clean car gets new batteries |
Car fixed, we drove around the city before arriving back at the caravan park/resort where we spent the afternoon in the pool. We also ran into our Adelaide friends who we met at Daly Waters, they are staying in the same park as us.
Dinner was in the restaurant with a quiz night. We didn't win but we had lots of fun trying.
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